Buying a Shed

Buying a shed seems like a very straight-forward task. They all look the same. They are all based on the same structure. But are they the same? Just like building a home, there are many factors to look at when buying a shed - not just the price.

Things to look at when building a shed:

* portal size - sheds use a portal frame system. The size and thickness of the portals (columns and rafters), and the spacings between them, add to the overall structural integrity of the shed.

* girts and purlins - often made of tophats or z-purlins, the thickness and spacing of girts and purlins adds to the overall structural integrity of the shed.

* is the steel imported or Australian steel? The industry if flooded with issues stemming from poor quality imported materials, including warping and rusting. A key indication is whether Colorbond colours are on offer. Imported steel will only be available in generic colours resembling Colorbond colours.

* how thick is the steel? Steel cladding generally comes in 0.42BMT (base metal thickness) or 0.35BMT - the thinner being noticeably flimsier, although cheaper.

* wind ratings - many people overlook the wind rating of their shed. Sheds can easily be blown apart in rural areas, particularly on open sheds. Your insurance may not cover damage to a shed that is under-rated for your area.

* angle brackets - sheds should have good quality embedded or bolt-down brackets. Cheap sheds use a basic angle bracket which are often flimsy and can be pulled out in a storm.

* roller door quality - it is important to use quality roller doors and tracks, especially in open areas. In a storm, where the roller doors bent or are pulled out of their tracks, the wind can get into the shed and rip it away from the concrete.

Other tips:

* watch your size - larger sheds may require cranes to lift the frame, scissor lifts, safety equipment etc, which all add to the price. There are rules in regard to how big your shed can be, depending on the size of your block and the zoning. Most councils will allow a relaxation on setback distances and sizing, for a fee.

* embedded brackets may seem like the best tie-down option. However, from past experience, as the concrete cures it can move the embedded brackets out of place. The result is that the columns are out of alignment and there is a noticeable warp through the walls, which also do not line up with the concrete. A good set of brackets with chem-sets or screw bolts ensures portals are installed neatly.